It is human nature to explore and overcome the challenges presented by nature: from diving into the deepest oceans to climbing the world’s highest peaks. As Nepal consists of eight of the world’s ten tallest mountains, we have witnessed countless mountaineering expeditions, records, and valiant attempts.
The 2026 spring climbing season was no exception. This year, the Himalayas once again became the stage for remarkable feats of endurance and determination, as several climbers broke historic records. Initially, this climbing season was delayed due to the risk posed by a massive serac above the Khumbu Icefall, which hung over the route to the summit, delaying the Sagarmatha expedition by around two weeks.
Despite the difficult start, this season soon transformed into one of the most eventful climbing seasons. The government issued 494 permits to climb Sagarmatha this year, breaking the all time high of 479 permits in 2023. Due to the pushback the climbing society faced due to the serac in early climbing seasons, the push for the summit intensified during the latter half (especially during mid-May). This caused an unprecedented 274 climbers summiting Sagarmatha from Nepali side in a single day. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the highest number of Sagarmatha ascents in a single day was 354 on 23 May 2019: 223 from the Nepal side and 113 from the Tibet side. Since the Chinese authorities have closed their route this year, this was the highest summits from a single route ever.
These records have caused a problem of their own. It has raised concerns regarding the overcrowding in high altitude. “It was very crowded this year compared to last year. The authorities need to control this number,” Kami Rita Sherpa told reporters at Kathmandu airport after returning from his summit. After the death toll this season increased to five, Kenton Cool, who summited 20 times—the highest non-Sherpa assent—told Reuters, “It is the operators who should be more diligent with who they allow to be with the team (of guides) that goes to the summit. People should not die on Sagarmatha if they have good enough experience.”
Yet despite concerns surrounding overcrowding and safety, the 2026 season also stood out for a series of historic achievements by Nepali climbers. Kami Rita Sherpa extended his own world record for the most Everest summits by climbing Sagarmatha once again this season, bringing his total to 32 ascents. Closely following him is Pasang Dawa Sherpa, who is currently on 31 summits after he summited twice this season.
Lhakpa Sherpa also broke her own record, achieving her 11th Sagarmatha summit (the highest number of ascents by a woman). “These records show the strength of Nepali Sherpas in the Himalayas,” explained Utsav Pathak, the managing director of Himalayan Mountaineering.
Beyond individual climbing records, the 2026 Everest season also highlighted Nepal’s representation through national institutions and public service personnel.
In a milestone for mountaineering and diplomacy, US Embassy Nepal’s Public Affairs Chief Mike Harker summited Sagarmatha on May 20, becoming the first serving American Foreign Service Officer to scale Mt Everest.
Just the previous year, Nepal also witnessed a historic achievement from its security forces. According to the Nepal Police spokesperson DIG Abi Narayan Kafle, Kunjang Chhopel Sherpa became the first female police officer to summit Sagarmatha on 19 May 2025. At the summit, she hoisted banners with the national flag of Nepal, Nepal Police, and messages against gender based violence.
Representing Nepal Police, Senior Sub-Inspector Purushottam Nepali had previously climbed the Sagarmatha in 2023, being the first male police officer to summit Sagarmatha. Similarly, the Nepali Army has played a major role in mountaineering expeditions over the decades.
According to the Nepali Army Spokesperson Brigadier General Raja Ram Basnet, then Warrant Officer 2 Padam Bahadur Tamang became the first enlisted personnel from the institution to summit Sagarmatha in 1988, later retiring with the rank of Major. Among officers, Captain Sunil Singh Rathore became the first to successfully climb Sagarmatha in 2003, and currently serves as a Brigadier General.
“We generally view mountaineering as a matter of national pride, International recognition and our utmost discipline,” the Army Spokesperson stated. Beyond Sagarmatha expeditions, the institution has contributed through high-altitude rescue operations, military-to-military joint expeditions promoting military diplomacy, and providing security during the 2008 Olympic torch ascent to Sagarmatha. The Army has also actively participated in the “Safa Himal Campaign” from 2019 to 2024, collecting over 108 tons of biodegradable and non-biodegradable waste from the mountains.
As the 2026 climbing season comes to an end, Sagarmatha has once again proved why it remains the symbol of human endurance and ambition. This season witnessed countless records along with institutional achievements. However, along with these accomplishments, concerns regarding overcrowding and safety were also highlighted, which need to be solved for sustained mountaineering.
