Reviving bhakamilo in Nepali cuisine

When I first tasted fresh sumac at the spice market in Istanbul, the tangy flavor instantly transported me back to my childhood in Nepal. It reminded me of ‘bhakamilo’ (Rhus javanica Miller), a local Nepali berry we used to snack on during childhood after swimming in the Kahu Khola river. To my surprise, bhakamilo and sumac share a familial connection, both belonging to the Rhus genus in the Anacardiaceae family. While sumac (Rhus coriaria) is a staple in Middle Eastern cuisine, bhakamilo remains an underappreciated gem in Nepal. 

Sumac and bhakamilo are shrubs known for their vibrant berries and aromatic foliage. While sumac grows across the Mediterranean, bhakamilo thrives in the foothills of the Himalayas, between 800 and 1200 meters. Both are members of the Anacardiaceae family, which also includes mangoes, pistachios, and cashews. Bhakamilo is commonly found on hill slopes and forested areas of Nepal, flourishing in the temperate climate. Despite its abundance, its culinary potential remains largely untapped.

Bhakamilo holds a nostalgic place in traditional Nepali life. For many of us, its tangy taste evokes memories of carefree childhood days spent exploring forests and indulging in wild edibles. The reddish berries, often consumed fresh, offered a burst of tartness that became synonymous with rural living. However, unlike sumac, which has found its way into spice blends like za’atar and is widely used in Middle Eastern cuisine, Bhakamilo has not been integrated into Nepali culinary practices beyond its role as a wild berry snack.

In Middle Eastern cuisine, sumac is celebrated for its lemony flavor, often used to brighten salads, kebabs, and rice dishes. Bhakamilo could serve a similar purpose in Nepali cuisine. Its tanginess could enhance dishes like gundruk ko achar (fermented leafy green pickle) or kwati (mixed bean soup), adding a refreshing acidity that complements earthy flavors.

Bhakamilo’s versatility extends beyond traditional recipes. It could be used in marinades, dry rubs, or dressings for meats such as lamb or duck, much like it enhances fatty meats in Levantine dishes. Additionally, it could be sprinkled over salads, stirred into yogurt, or even incorporated into rice dishes. Its potential to bridge traditional and modern culinary styles makes it an exciting ingredient for chefs and home cooks alike.

Bhakamilo is rich in antioxidants, particularly tannins and anthocyanins, which contribute to its vibrant color and astringent taste. Traditional medicine in Nepal has long used bhakamilo for digestive ailments, sore throats, and inflammation. Its natural acidity stimulates digestion, making it a valuable addition to pickles and fermented foods. As scientific studies increasingly highlight the health benefits of sumac, including its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, bhakamilo could gain recognition as a wellness-enhancing ingredient.

As Nepali cuisine evolves, the time is right to reintroduce bhakamilo. Its tangy flavor and cultural significance make it a promising addition to contemporary dishes. Similar to za’atar, a spice mix using ground bhakamilo, herbs, roasted sesame seeds, and salt could create a distinctly Nepali seasoning. This blend could enhance flatbreads, salads, or marinades.

Nepal’s tradition of pickling could benefit from bhakamilo’s acidity. Incorporating it into chutneys and pickles would add a unique tang. Ground bhakamilo could be used as a garnish for dishes like sekuwa (grilled meat), choila (spiced meat salad), or bhuteko bhat (fried rice), providing both flavor and visual appeal.

Its sourness pairs well with creamy textures, making it an ideal addition to yogurt-based dips and sauces. Bhakamilo’s tang could elevate desserts such as rice puddings or fruit salads, offering a creative fusion of flavors.

Reintroducing bhakamilo into Nepali cuisine presents both challenges and opportunities. Its limited culinary awareness requires education for chefs, home cooks, and food enthusiasts. Additionally, harvesting and processing bhakamilo on a commercial scale might be challenging due to its specific habitat. However, the global interest in foraged and indigenous ingredients presents an opportunity for Nepal to position bhakamilo as a niche product with cultural and commercial value.

Local farmers, cooperatives, and entrepreneurs could play a pivotal role in bringing bhakamilo to market. Its potential as a culinary ingredient, combined with its health benefits, makes it an attractive proposition for both domestic and international markets.

Bhakamilo is a symbol of Nepal’s rich biodiversity and culinary heritage. Rediscovering its potential could reconnect the younger generation to their cultural roots through food. As Nepal’s cuisine continues to expand its horizons, embracing bhakamilo could serve as a bridge between tradition and innovation.

By exploring its diverse applications, Nepal can preserve the flavor of bhakamilo for future generations while introducing it to a global audience. This humble berry has the potential to become a staple spice, enriching dishes with its unique taste and connecting people to the vibrant landscapes where it grows.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Nostalgia of gudpak

In his famous poem on Nepal’s societal and political dynamics, Bhupi Sherchan described the country as ‘hallai halla ko desh’ (land of uproar and rumors). Reflecting on that sentiment, there was a time when whispers spread about Indian sweet shop owners allegedly conspiring against Nepal’s gudpak industry. This was during a crackdown by the Department of Food Technology and Quality Control (DFTQC) on gudpak shops in Kathmandu’s New Road in September 2011.

The raids unearthed alarming levels of toxins, bacteria, and acidic elements in gudpak, which could cause food poisoning. Shop owners faced legal battles and imprisonment, leaving many to believe it marked the end of this beloved Nepali delicacy. But gudpak proved resilient, making a remarkable comeback despite the setbacks.

For me, gudpak is more than just a sweet treat. It’s a comforting slice of my childhood, infused with nostalgia. Living in the UK, I often try to replicate its taste with Indian or Pakistani sweets like habsi haluwa. But nothing quite matches the unique charm of gudpak. Every bite reminds me of Kathmandu, where it was not just food but an emotional and communal experience.

Back in the day, gudpak was a treasured gift. Whenever someone traveled from Pokhara to Kathmandu, the one repeated request was, “Bring back gudpak.” It wasn’t merely a snack but a symbol of love, capable of lighting up entire households. I recall waiting eagerly for my uncle’s visits, certain he’d bring that familiar box of gudpak. It wasn’t just our family that celebrated. Even neighbors joined in on the excitement. Gudpak, in those moments, was about more than taste—it was about shared joy and community.

Though many renowned Gudpak shops in Kathmandu have closed, the sweet remains alive in my memories. Gudpak is a part of my identity, tying me to Kathmandu’s bustling streets and my childhood in Nepal.

The story of gudpak’s creation is as layered as the sweet itself. Some believe it emerged from Nepali confectioners’ creativity, blending leftover sweets into a harmonious new recipe. Others trace its origins to the early 20th century, crediting Panna Lal Maskey, who introduced gudpak to Kathmandu in 1933 at his Ason shop. The name itself derives from ‘gud’ (jaggery or edible gum) and ‘pak(h)’ (the process of cooking). This innovative fusion secured gudpak’s place in Nepal’s culinary heritage.

Gudpak starts with a creamy base of khuwa or khoa, made from buffalo or cow milk, renowned for its rich texture and flavor. The finest khuwa, often sourced from Banepa or Panauti, can even stand alone as a treat. Nuts, dried fruits, and spices—like almonds, cashews, dates, and watermelon seeds—are then folded into it. The result is a fragrant, caramel-colored delight, best enjoyed fresh for its gooey and soft texture.

Modern gudpak production has evolved, with gas stoves replacing traditional wood-fired methods. While techniques have changed, the essence of gudpak—a nutrient-dense, flavorful confection—remains intact.

Among gudpak varieties, sutkeri gudpak holds special significance. Made specifically for new mothers, it includes herbs like battisa powder (a blend of 32 herbs) and jesthalangwadi (another 14-herb mix). It’s believed to support postpartum recovery, providing energy, warmth, and immunity. Even today, it’s a cherished gift for new mothers, symbolizing nourishment and care.

Gudpak is a cultural emblem. A 2010 survey revealed that gudpak was particularly popular among the Newa community, often featuring in celebrations and festivals. Annually, about 579 metric tonnes of Gudpak are produced, with the industry valued at Rs 192.5 million. A kilogram of quality gudpak sells for around Rs 800, reflecting its continued importance in Nepali culture.

Despite its cultural significance, the gudpak industry faces challenges. Many iconic shops have closed due to competition from Indian sweets and Western desserts. However, stalwarts like Shree Ganesh Mithai Pasal and Best Mithai Sweet Shop continue to uphold the tradition, catering to loyal customers with authentic gudpak and pustakari.

Gudpak’s legacy endures, connecting generations and preserving its place in Nepal’s culinary and cultural landscape. In Kathmandu, gudpak remains a beloved treat, especially during festivals and as a gift for loved ones.

Whenever I long for home, I close my eyes and relive the sweet memory of gudpak—its rich flavor and emotional resonance tethering me to my roots in Nepal. It’s more than a confection. It’s an irreplaceable part of my life and identity.

Krishna Pauroti: A slice of history

During my travels across 79 countries, I’ve encountered a myriad of flavors, from the buttery aroma of freshly baked croissants in Paris to the rich, hearty scent of bread in Turkey and Austria. Being an early riser by nature, I’ve often walked the streets of these places, enchanted by the art of baking.

Growing up in Pokhara, however, bread was a rare luxury—a delicacy my father would bring home only for special occasions. Birthdays were marked with fruit cake if my father was home. Otherwise, homemade laddus and simple sharbat sufficed for celebration. I vividly recall the joy of unwrapping a cupcake sprinkled with coconut—a luxury in those days, where even a sprinkle of peanuts could elevate the treat. Today, despite the abundant offerings of bakeries worldwide, it’s these simple, nostalgic flavors that hold the greatest charm for me, especially the timeless Krishna Pauroti of Nepal.

In Nepal, bread (pauroti) owes much of its legacy to the pioneering efforts of the Karnikar family, especially Krishna Bahadur Rajkarnikar. His journey as a baker began 76 years ago when he returned from India and established Nepal’s first bakery of its kind. Krishna Pauroti, the bakery he founded, became synonymous with bread in Nepal, and its legacy endures to this day.

Krishna Bahadur, the visionary behind Krishna Pauroti, honed his baking skills during his time in Calcutta, India. Inspired by the bustling tea stalls he encountered there, he envisioned introducing a similar culture to Nepal. In 1948, upon his return, he set up Krishna Pauroti in Kamal Pokhari, Kathmandu, along with a tea stall. This combination of freshly brewed tea and warm bread was revolutionary, marking the dawn of Nepal’s fast-food culture.

Bisheshwar Prasad Koirala, fondly known as Sanu Dai, was one of the regular patrons of Krishna Bahadur’s tea stall, further cementing the bakery’s reputation as a space where influential figures and ordinary folk alike could enjoy the humble pleasure of bread. Beyond introducing pauroti to Kathmandu, Krishna Bahadur mentored countless others, inspiring a wave of pauroti entrepreneurs across Nepal and beyond.

Krishna Pauroti was a cultural institution. Krishna Bahadur’s son, Ghanshyam Raj Karnikar, now 84, came to be known as Nepal’s ‘King of Pauroti.’ The Karnikar family’s ties to historical figures like Maharaj Bir Shamsher, through Krishna Bahadur’s friend Heera Man Singh, imbued Krishna Pauroti with a sense of heritage and tradition deeply rooted in Nepal’s history.

The Karnikars belong to the Halwai community, known for their mastery of sweets and delicacies. Their family name, Raj Karnikar, means ‘Royal Crafter,’ an apt title for a lineage that brought an artisanal touch to Nepali cuisine. Krishna Bahadur’s innovative techniques, learned during his time in India, helped Krishna Pauroti stand out as Nepal’s premier bakery.

For many years, Krishna Pauroti was the go-to bakery in Kathmandu, synonymous with quality and tradition. The bakery introduced bread varieties unfamiliar to Nepal, experimenting with ingredients like millet and buckwheat. By incorporating native grains, Krishna Pauroti fused local ingredients with traditional baking methods, offering familiar flavors in novel forms.

Even King Mahendra was a regular customer, and royal patronage helped solidify Krishna Pauroti’s status as a top-tier bakery. In 1972, Krishna Pauroti transitioned into a private limited company, ushering in a new chapter for the bakery.

Today, Krishna Pauroti is more than a bread bakery. It has expanded its offerings to include cakes, cookies, and other baked goods, adapting to the evolving demands of a changing Nepal. Despite its modern expansion, the bakery remains true to its roots, embodying the humble craftsmanship and dedication of its founder.

Operating from four locations in the Kathmandu Valley—Kamal Pokhari, Khumaltar, Hattiban, and Mahalaxmi—Krishna Pauroti continues to offer a taste of nostalgia alongside its innovative creations.

Krishna Bahadur not only founded a bakery but also inspired a generation of bakers and entrepreneurs. Many of those he trained went on to establish their own bakeries, spreading the legacy of Krishna Pauroti within Nepal and beyond. His influence significantly contributed to the growth of Nepal’s bakery scene, cultivating an appreciation for bread and pastries in a culture previously unfamiliar with such foods.

Whenever I visit Krishna Pauroti, ‘am reminded of the simplicity of my childhood treats in Pokhara and the joy of savoring a fruit cake or a coconut-sprinkled cupcake. It’s remarkable to see how far the bakery has come—from a single tea stall to a network of bakeries that remain at the heart of Nepal’s culinary landscape.

The evolution of Krishna Pauroti mirrors Nepal’s growth, transforming from a modest yet ambitious enterprise into a symbol of entrepreneurship and resilience. Through every loaf of bread and every pastry, Krishna Pauroti continues to tell the story of its founders and the flavors of a nation.

As the scent of freshly baked bread wafts through Kathmandu’s streets, Krishna Pauroti serves as a beautiful reminder of Nepal’s culinary journey—from its humble beginnings to its role in shaping modern Nepali food culture. It’s a story of dedication, realized dreams, and a family’s unwavering commitment to their craft.

Dashain feast recommendations for meat lovers

As Dashain approaches, Nepal is filled with the aromas of spices, roasted meats, and the warmth of family gatherings. For me, memories of childhood in Kathmandu come flooding back—flying kites on rooftops, the colorful creations dancing in the sky, and the sound of laughter all around. Kite-flying was more than a game. It was a way to bond with family and friends, celebrating freedom and joy.

During breaks from kite battles, we’d enjoy simple, yet unforgettable snacks made by our mothers. The cool, crisp weather of the season added to the perfect festive atmosphere. Now, as a chef, these memories inspire me to craft a Dashain feast that embodies togetherness, tradition, and flavor, especially for meat lovers in the family.

A feast rooted in tradition

Dashain is known for its hearty meat dishes, symbolizing abundance and unity. Growing up, goat pakku (slow-cooked meat), mutton curry, and sukuti (dried meat) were festival staples. This year, I aim to celebrate those traditional flavors while introducing a few new dishes from different Nepali communities. My goal is to bring fresh ideas to the table, allowing everyone to experience something new while staying rooted in tradition.

Dashain is not just about food. It’s about creating memories and bonding over shared meals. By showcasing dishes from various communities, we can celebrate our rich Nepali culinary heritage while bringing different traditions together.

Rayo ko saag with goat fat: A Dharane delight

One dish I’m excited to serve this year is ‘rayo ko saag’ (mustard greens) cooked with fatty goat meat. Popular in eastern Nepal, especially in Dharan, this dish combines tender, fatty goat meat with slightly bitter mustard greens. The goat fat adds a rich, melt-in-your-mouth quality, creating a comforting dish perfect for Dashain. It’s simple yet deeply satisfying.

Tite wachipa: A bold Kirat dish

For those eager to try something new, I recommend ‘tite wachipa’, a traditional dish from the Kirat community. Made with chicken and a bitter herb, wachipa offers a unique blend of bitterness and spice. It’s not commonly found on Dashain tables, but it’s perfect for pre-festival meals. The bitter herb is said to cleanse the palate, making wachipa an intriguing addition to a meat-heavy feast.

Pakku and taas: A tasty duo

Goat pakku is a classic Dashain dish, but why not mix things up with taas from Chitwan? Taas is stir-fried mutton, marinated and cooked until crispy on the outside yet tender on the inside. Served with bhuja  (puffed rice), it’s a delicious alternative to traditional pakku. By rotating between pakku and taas, you can keep things fresh while offering familiar flavors.

Goat katia: A Mithila specialty

Another dish I’d love to introduce is goat katia, a spicy stew from the Mithila community. Slow-cooked to perfection, this dish is packed with layers of flavor as the spices infuse the meat. Paired with fresh roti or rice, goat katia is perfect for a festive gathering. It’s simple yet sophisticated, leaving your family talking about it long after the meal is over.

Sekuwa: A grilled favorite

No Dashain feast is complete without sekuwa, Nepal’s famous grilled meat. Whether made from goat, chicken, or buffalo, sekuwa’s smoky, spiced flavor is synonymous with celebration. This year, I plan to dedicate one day just for sekuwa, marinated in Nepali spices, grilled to perfection, and served with achar and salad. Its simplicity allows the meat’s flavor to shine, making it a must-have for any festive meal.

Haku choila: A Newari classic

Another dish perfect for Dashain is haku choila, a Newari-style grilled buffalo meat. Seasoned with mustard oil, garlic, and chili, this smoky, bold-flavored dish is a favorite for meat lovers. Paired with traditional ayla (Newari rice wine), haku choila adds an exciting element to the pre-festival celebrations.

Chicken roast: A dashain tradition

No Dashain feels complete without a festive chicken roast. This dish, reminiscent of grand family gatherings, features chicken marinated in spices and slow-roasted until crispy and tender. The aroma alone is enough to draw everyone to the table. A well-cooked chicken roast adds a touch of elegance and warmth to any Dashain meal.

Pulau with roast lamb or chicken

This year, I’m introducing a new twist on tradition by serving pulau, a spiced rice dish, topped with either roast lamb or chicken. Pulau brings a sense of occasion to the table, reminding me of grand wedding feasts. Paired with khutti (bone broth) and timmur and tomato achar, it’s a hearty, satisfying dish that brings a festive spirit to Dashain.

As we prepare for Dashain 2024, let’s make it a celebration to remember with a feast of mouth-watering, spicy, tangy dishes that will leave a lasting impression. Let’s celebrate not just with food but with memories that warm the heart and soul, bringing family and friends closer together during this special time.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Dashain for vegetarians

Dashain is the most significant festival in Nepal, celebrated with family gatherings, laughter, and of course, food. The dining table becomes the heart of the celebration, bringing everyone together to share, laugh, and enjoy meals that reflect love and unity. While meat dishes like goat curry and sukuti are often seen as staples during Dashain, I believe this festival should be just as delightful for vegetarians. After all, food is about inclusion, and when we cook for loved ones, we should ensure everyone feels welcome at the table.

I believe it’s important to reimagine the Dashain menu to cater to those who prefer plant-based meals. Why not celebrate the spirit of togetherness with a vegetarian feast that’s just as flavorful, joyful, and satisfying as any meat-based spread?

Reimagining vegetarian samay baji

If you were to be my guest this Dashain, I would serve you a vegetarian version of ‘samay baji’, a Newari platter traditionally filled with meat but now designed to cater to vegetarian tastes. Each element of this dish would represent the diversity and richness of Nepal’s culinary heritage, made with local, seasonal ingredients. Every bite would reflect the colors and flavors of Dashain, honoring both tradition and innovation.

Chiura (Beaten rice): Light and crispy, this staple pairs perfectly with every other dish, providing a crunchy base for the flavorful elements on the plate.

Bhatmas (fried black soybeans): Crispy and nutty, these black soybeans add texture and balance, offering a satisfying crunch with every bite.

Wa/Bara (lentil pancakes): Rich in protein, these soft lentil pancakes nod to tradition while ensuring the dish remains hearty and fulfilling.

Soybean or mushroom choyela: Typically, a meat-based dish, choyela in this vegetarian version uses smoky grilled soybeans or mushrooms, seasoned with Nepali spices.

Palu (finely cut ginger): This burst of freshness ties the whole plate together, balancing the richness of the other dishes.

Tofu chili: In place of the traditional boiled egg, this spicy stir-fried tofu brings a bold flavor to the plate, adding a dash of heat that’s perfect for the festive meal.

Vegetable pakora: Crispy on the outside, tender inside, these vegetable fritters are a nostalgic touch, reminiscent of fried fish from Malekhu but in a vegetarian form.

Aalu sadeko (spicy potato salad): This tangy, spicy potato salad is full of the addictive, fiery flavors that Dashain meals are known for.

Greens (saag): Whether sautéed spinach or mustard greens, no Nepali meal is complete without greens. They add a colorful, healthy touch to the feast.

Achar (pickles): No Dashain platter is complete without pickles. My version would feature radish, carrot, and lapsi berry, creating a tangy, spicy accompaniment. I’d also include chukauni, a creamy yogurt-based potato pickle from western Nepal, adding a regional twist.

Aila (Newari wine): A small shot of aila would complete the experience, pairing beautifully with the earthy flavors of the vegetarian samay baji.

This vegetarian samay baji is a celebration on a plate, where each element is thoughtfully crafted to honor tradition while offering something new and exciting.

Vegetarian options

Dashain is a festival of abundance, and for me, the essence of this celebration lies in the togetherness it brings—not in the sacrifice of animals. Nepal has a long history of vegetarian cuisine, and this Dashain, I want to showcase how these dishes can stand proudly alongside traditional meat offerings. Here are some of my favorite vegetarian delicacies that are perfect for the festival.

Soybean chili: A spicy, tangy dish where soybeans are the star, offering a bold depth of flavor that’s both exciting and familiar.

Paneer masala: Paneer cooked in a rich, spiced tomato sauce brings a sense of indulgence and comfort to the table.

Aalu cauli (potato and cauliflower curry): This hearty, flavorful dish is packed with Nepali spices, making it the perfect accompaniment to the festive spread.

Mushroom choyela: A vegetarian twist on the traditional grilled meat dish, this version uses marinated mushrooms, offering the smoky flavor that Dashain feasts are known for.

Soy keema kerau masala: My signature dish for Dashain 2024, this soy mince cooked with peas in a spicy gravy provides the perfect vegetarian alternative to keema, giving that famous ‘piro’ (spicy) kick.

Each of these dishes tells a story of family, culture, and love—the essence of what Dashain is all about. Cooking for the people you care about is an act of love, and the joy that comes from creating these meals is shared by all who gather around the table. The heart and soul you put into the kitchen translate into the joy felt at the dining table, making each meal unforgettable.

Celebrating with vibrant vegetarian dishes

This Dashain, I invite you to celebrate with dishes that are as colorful and festive as the kites we once flew on our childhood rooftops. Plates filled with spicy, tangy, and flavorful vegetarian dishes can ensure that this festival will be one to remember. A feast that brings people together, full of flavors that will have your family talking for the rest of the year—a true celebration of tradition, love, and unity.

With this approach, Dashain becomes a time to honor the rich variety of Nepali cuisine, ensuring that everyone at the table, vegetarian or not, feels included and celebrated.

The author is UK-based R&D chef

The luxury of flying first class

Flying first class has long been considered a symbol of luxury, reserved only for a selected few. I grew up in Nepal, and flying in itself was a rare experience. I never thought that I would fly among those exclusive groups. Growing up in the UK, being from a working-class background, flying first class was a faraway dream and too extravagant for anybody’s reach. Even though the airlines of Nepal have joined the international scene, none has yet offered anything other than standard cabins. As is the case with many others, I always wondered what lay beyond that mysterious curtain separating economy from first class.

Then, one day, the opportunity came along unexpectedly. I was having a chat with one of our senior managers at work and mentioned how much I’d love to fly first class. He laughed first, then said, “Leave it to me.” Well, wouldn’t you be surprised, he set up the possibility of an upgrade on my next long-haul flight. “Dress smartly,” he said, “and if there’s no paying passenger, you just might get upgraded.”

I was very surprised when I got upgraded on a Lufthansa flight. My heart was racing as boarding happened, stepping into a world of luxury I once only fantasized about. It seemed surreal, to finally be tasting those dishes at 39,000 feet which I had helped design for airplane menus.

The first class was almost like going into this little peaceful sanctuary. The wide, plush seats would recline at the touch of a button into fully flat beds. No noise, no rush—just quiet and comfortable. It was just like going into another world.

From the moment I sat down, the care was incredible. One of the cabin crew members came out and greeted me by my last name, offering a glass of champagne in sparkling crystal. This wasn’t just champagne. It was top-shelf, part of the luxury which flying first class is all about.

Probably the most remarkable features of flying first class were the dining experiences. I had worked for airline catering, developing dishes for major airlines, but never on the receiving end. The menu would be presented—just as it would be in a fine-dining restaurant-elegant on high-quality paper, gourmet dishes crafted by world-class chefs.

There was smoked salmon amuse-bouche with caviar on top, followed by a salad course of lobster-avocado with a hint of citrus dressing. Then, the main course turbot fillet was perfectly cooked and served along with truffle mashed purple potatoes and roasted vegetables in white wine caper saffron sauce, garnished with edible flowers.

Finally, for dessert, I had molten chocolate fondant with vanilla bean ice cream. The feast could give any Michelin-starred restaurant a run for its money. The attention to detail was impressive—fine porcelain for each course, with real silverware, linen napkins, and crystal glassware. Finally, the experience concluded with a freshly brewed coffee and a selection of the finest chocolates. Every aspect from bread to butter was thoughtfully curated.

What was unique was not only the food and comfort but personalized service. The cabin crew addressed me by my name, and before I would even ask, they would have already anticipated it. If I mentioned a particular wine that I liked, they would come with a bottle for me to try. It felt like dining in a five-star restaurant where the chef customizes the menu to your taste.

My airplane seat was less of an airplane seat than a private suite. There was a closet for my belongings, adjustable lighting, and a huge entertainment screen. When bedtime came, flight attendants came along to provide turndown service—fresh linens and pajamas. I slept very soundly as though I were in a five-star hotel and not on the airplane.

Another surprising thing to me was just how practical first class was for working professionals, with its high-speed internet, available power outlets, and spacious work area. It’s pretty clear why any business executive would travel first class. The quiet, private environment helped me get a lot of work accomplished in an efficient manner.

We often wonder why would anyone pay ten times the price of an economy ticket for first class? Now, having had the experience, I understand why. It’s not about space or food. It’s about the entire experience of first class. First-class passengers have a certain privacy and comfort. Personal service makes the journey nice rather than just a means of getting somewhere.

From private airport lounges to head-of-the-queue boarding, first-class passengers are catered to from the instant they step into the airport. For the business executive, at least, the opportunity to work in quiet, private surroundings may make first-class a practical necessity. For others, this could be the once-in-a-lifetime pampering.

At first, I felt out of place, overwhelmed by such attention and luxury. I explained this to one of the flight attendants and she kindly gave me the space I needed. I learned that flying first class isn’t just about opulence. Rather, it’s about savoring a different way of traveling. I wasn’t born into it but anyone can appreciate it and enjoy the experience. If you ever get the chance, flying first class is an extraordinary voyage. It makes flying unforgettable.

Baral is a UK-based R&D chef

Make your own garam masala

Do you remember the childhood gestures of saying, ‘Dashain Aayo!’ (‘Dashain is here!’) while folding your pinky finger, then moving to the ring finger and saying, ‘Khaula Piula!’ (‘We’ll eat and drink!’)? 

With Dashain approaching, now is the perfect time to make your own garam masala blend. It’s a simple process that will save you time during busy celebrations and give you the chance to experiment with flavors. Making your own spice mix allows you to select the freshest ingredients, ensuring the best possible taste for your dishes. Plus, the process of roasting and grinding spices fills your home with a comforting aroma, bringing back fond memories of festive times.

I encourage you to try making your own garam masala. There is no right or wrong way—just follow your taste and the traditions passed down by your family. Whether you’re preparing a meal for a large gathering or a quiet dinner with loved ones, your homemade garam masala will add a touch of warmth and love to every dish.

Food isn’t just about satisfying hunger. It tells a story. It’s about the traditions we uphold, the memories we create, and the love we share. Cooking with your own garam masala mix adds a special touch to every meal, connecting you to your roots and allowing you to express your individuality.

So go ahead, experiment, and make this festive season a little more aromatic and flavorful with your own version of Nepali garam masala. After all, the best dishes are those that fill the air with delicious scents, make your stomach dance with joy, and are remembered for a lifetime. And what better way to achieve that than by using the rich, regional spices that are the heart of Nepal?

As you prepare for the upcoming festivals, take time to enjoy the process. Savor the aromas, celebrate the flavors of Nepal, and let every dish you cook be memorable, aromatic, and truly Nepali.

Before pre-made garam masala became widely available, every household in Nepal had its own unique blend of the spice mix, varying by region, community, and even family. Growing up, I saw the difference between my mother’s side of the family, who preferred bold, ‘masaladar’ flavors, and my father’s side, who favored milder tastes. My mother, who spent time in India and Kashmir, had a deep understanding of spices and brought that influence to her cooking. My maternal family, with roots in Nepal, Assam, Kolkata, and Burma, added their own touch, weaving a colorful tapestry of flavors in every meal.

I vividly remember my aunt in Janakpur, who would carefully prepare different garam masala blends for various pickles. She had a unique mix for semi-raw mango pickles, another for garlic pickles, and a special blend for the fermented cucumber pickle, known as ‘Purano Achar’ in Nepal. She even had distinct versions for fresh radish pickles and aged radish pickles, called ‘Mula Ko Purano Achar.’ As a child, I was fascinated by these subtle variations, and I soon learned that the art of spice mixing is a vital part of Nepali culinary traditions, passed down through generations.

I’d like to share my family’s garam masala recipe with you. Having traveled to 79 countries and explored some of the world’s most spice-rich cuisines—from Indian to Arabic and Oriental—I’ve spent 26 years researching and developing food. I’ve learned that there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to cooking. What makes a dish truly special is how it connects us to our roots and culture. So, while every family may have its own version of garam masala, I invite you to try mine. When you cook with passion, the aroma should fill the street, and when you eat, your stomach should dance with joy.

In our household, garam masala is made by lightly roasting the spices and grinding them into a fine powder. This is our family recipe, but feel free to adjust it to your taste.

Two tbsp cumin seeds

Two tbsp coriander seeds

Three tbsp green cardamom pods

One tbsp black peppercorns

Two sticks cinnamon

Four tsp whole cloves

One nutmeg

Three long pepper

Four bay leaves

For the best garam masala, use equal proportions by volume. Adjust the spices to your liking—there are no strict rules. Store the mix in an airtight jar, and it will last for about a month. It’s perfect for everyday meals or festive feasts.

Spices are at the core of Nepali cuisine, shaping the flavor of every dish. From cumin and coriander to cinnamon and cloves, each spice brings its own distinct taste and aroma, transforming simple ingredients into unforgettable meals. However, the choice of spices can vary based on household preferences, regional availability, and seasonal changes.

For example, my aunt in Janakpur is very particular about the spices she uses in her pickles. She creates different blends for mango, garlic, cucumber, and radish pickles. This kind of regional specificity adds depth to Nepali cooking, as every family has its own set of preferences and traditions when it comes to spices. The result is a rich diversity of flavors that make each household’s dishes unique.

The author is UK-based R&D Chef

The comfort of jaulo

Do you remember the comfort food your mother made when you were sick? For many in Nepal, that dish was ‘jaulo’, a simple yet soothing rice and lentil porridge that remains a staple in Nepali kitchens. It holds a special place in the hearts of most Nepalis, much like its variations do in other cultures—‘khichadi’ in India, British kedgeree, and Italian risotto.

For me, jaulo is more than just food. It’s a warm, comforting hug from my mother. Whenever she made jaulo, it was more than a meal; it was a gesture of love, a remedy for any ailment, mood, or weather. My mother always knew when jaulo was needed. Whether it was a chilly day, someone in the family was feeling under the weather, or she just couldn’t decide what to cook, jaulo was the go-to dish. It was a staple in our household, often served for breakfast, lunch, or even as a snack. Her cooking was simple, quick, and easy, yet it tasted like nectar to us.

The recipe for jaulo is remarkably straightforward—one part rice, three parts lentils, and six parts water, with just turmeric and salt for seasoning. However, the magic lay in the tempering, which varied based on what was available at home. My mother loved using mung daal, but she was flexible and used whatever lentils were on hand. Seasonal greens were often added, giving the dish a fresh twist.

The tempering was the soul of her jaulo. She always used garlic and whole red chilies, tempered in ghee, which gave the dish its distinctive aroma and flavor. Depending on the lentils, she would vary the spices, sometimes using mustard seeds, ajwain (carom seeds), fenugreek seeds, cumin, and occasionally asafoetida (hing), which was my favorite. On special occasions, she would add jimbu (Himalayan chives), making the dish absolutely delicious.

Once, when I missed her jaulo terribly, I called her for the recipe. Trying to recreate it from memory, I realized the key was in the details—how she balanced the spices, the exact timing of adding ingredients, and the love she poured into every pot. Jaulo is more than just a dish. It encapsulates the essence of home, a mother’s love, and the simplicity of comfort food that warms the heart and soul.

Each bite of jaulo is a nostalgic journey back to my childhood, bringing with it the warmth and security of my mother’s kitchen. Whenever I cook jaulo now, I’m transported back to those days when my mother’s cooking made everything better. Her jaulo was not just food—it was a symbol of her care and affection, a dish that could heal and bring joy no matter the circumstances.

Jaulo and its global cousins

Rice and lentil dishes have been a staple in many cultures worldwide for centuries. From the comforting Nepali jaulo to the British kedgeree and the Italian risotto, these dishes share a common base of rice and lentils or legumes, but each brings unique flavors and cultural significance. Here’s a look at some of these beloved dishes.

Nepali jaulo
Jaulo is a simple yet nutritious dish central to Nepali cuisine. Traditionally consumed during Maghe Sankranti, it’s believed to have cleansing properties and is often prepared with minimal ingredients. The basic recipe includes rice, lentils, water, turmeric, and salt, with optional additions like vegetables and spices.

Indian khichadi
Khichadi, often referred to as Khichdi or Khichari, is a staple across India, known for its simplicity and ease of digestion. This dish is particularly associated with comfort during illness or monsoons. It typically includes rice, moong dal (split yellow mung bean), and a variety of spices, sometimes with added vegetables.

British kedgeree
Kedgeree is a dish that evolved during the British colonial era in India, inspired by the traditional Indian khichari. It typically includes smoked fish, rice, and eggs, seasoned with curry powder and garnished with fresh parsley. Kedgeree combines the protein of fish and eggs with the carbohydrates of rice, providing a hearty and nutritious meal.

Italian risotto
While not traditionally made with lentils, risotto shares the same comforting and hearty nature as jaulo and khichadi. It’s made with arborio rice, known for its creamy texture, and often includes ingredients like mushrooms, seafood, or saffron. Risotto provides energy from carbohydrates and can be enriched with various proteins and vegetables, making it a versatile and nutritious dish.

Rice and lentil dishes like jaulo, khichadi, kedgeree, and risotto are cherished across different cultures for their simplicity, nutritional value, and comforting nature. Each dish reflects its unique cultural heritage while sharing a common foundation of rice and legumes or complementary ingredients. These dishes not only provide sustenance but also carry historical and emotional significance, connecting generations and regions through their enduring appeal.

As the world becomes more health-conscious, these humble dishes continue to hold their place on our tables, reminding us of the warmth and love that come with a home-cooked meal. Whether it’s the Nepali jaulo or its global cousins, each dish offers a comforting taste of home, wherever that may be.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef