Celebrating tilauri, ghue, and chaku

A few years ago, I was in New York for an airline catering project. My schedule was packed, and my routine revolved around the comfort of a five-star hotel and occasional dinners in Jackson Heights.

One evening, a humble and soft-spoken kitchen assistant in my team, a Bhutanese Nepali-speaking young man who had never set foot in Nepal, invited me to his house for dinner. I hadn’t realized that day was Maghe Sankranti – the first day of the Nepali month of Magh, a culturally significant day in many South Asian cultures.

Initially, I hesitated. I was accustomed to fine dining, and this was a long drive out of the city. But something about his warmth and enthusiasm made me say yes.

He picked me up later that evening, and we drove over an hour to his place. As we arrived, I noticed the house was buzzing with activity. Four families had gathered, and there was an air of celebration. The dining table was adorned with dishes I had seen growing up but hadn’t truly appreciated: steamed tubers, sesame laddus, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, and bowls of chamre rice lined the table alongside a dish I had never encountered before – tite Chicken, a slightly bitter preparation unique to their tradition.

It wasn’t until I saw the offerings carefully arranged in a corner that it hit me – it was Maghe Sankranti. I felt shame for not remembering the day and for how far I had moved from my roots. Yet, as I stood there, surrounded by strangers who welcomed me like family, I realized this moment wasn’t about guilt but about rediscovery. Here were Nepali-speaking families, thousands of miles away from Nepal, preserving and celebrating our culture with such reverence.

We shared stories, ate together, and laughed late into the night. That evening, they earned my respect for their dedication to keeping our traditions alive. Their version of chamre (a ceremonial rice dish) was exquisite, and the tite Chicken – a dish I had never tried before – was unforgettable. From that day on, I vowed never to overlook Maghe Sankranti again.

Maghe Sankranti marks the sun’s transition into Capricorn (Makara), symbolizing the end of the darkest, coldest days and the start of longer, warmer ones. This shift, both astronomical and symbolic, is celebrated with rituals, food, and gatherings across Nepal and in Nepali-speaking communities worldwide.

On Maghe Sankranti, families across Nepal enjoy steamed tubers like yam (rato tarul), sweet potatoes (sakar kanda), and potatoes. These humble roots are not only nutritious but also carry cultural significance. In rural areas, tubers were often the only available food during harsh winters. Rich in carbohydrates, fiber, and potassium, they provide the energy and warmth needed to combat the cold.

Tilauri, or sesame seed laddus, paired with ghue (clarified butter) and chaku (jaggery), is a quintessential Maghe Sankranti offering. Sesame seeds are revered in Hindu culture, symbolizing purity, prosperity, and health. In the cold months, their high fat and nutrient content nourish the body, while jaggery provides essential minerals and a natural energy boost. Ghee, with its warming and lubricating properties, complements the combination perfectly.

Together, these foods embody the Nepali philosophy of balancing taste, health, and spiritual significance.

Maghe Sankranti is celebrated differently across Nepal and its neighboring regions. Some communities celebrate it with Khitro or Khichadi, which is made with black gram (Vigna mungo) and rice and tilkut (sesame candy).

In some communities, unique dishes like tite chicken – a bittersweet curry along with burnt chicken feathers ash – are prepared. This dish, though uncommon, reflects the fusion of local ingredients with traditional cooking methods.

Maghe Sankranti foods are not just delicious, they are also aligned with seasonal needs. Winter is a time when the body requires extra calories and nutrients to stay warm and healthy. The festival’s emphasis on tubers, sesame seeds, jaggery, and ghee reflects an ancient understanding of nutrition.

Ayurveda, the traditional system of medicine, highlights these foods as winter staples for balancing vata (the air element) and keeping the body grounded and nourished.

The experience I had in New York that year taught me a profound lesson: traditions aren't confined to geography. They live on in the hearts and kitchens of those who cherish them. For me, Maghe Sankranti is now a day to pause, reflect, and celebrate – not just the food but also the stories, memories, and people that make it meaningful.

So, this Maghe Sankranti, let us steam our tubers, roll our tilauris, and share a meal with family and friends near or far. Because at the heart of it, this festival is about warmth: the warmth of food, community, tradition, and celebrating together.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Issues and voices for gender equality

 

Gender equality has become a challenge in Nepal due to several sociocultural factors. Adhikari R and Sharma J (2022) write in European Bulletin of Himalayan Resource that (in Nepal), women are stereotypically represented as vulnerable, uneducated, or less educated Third World women. The social and political system of Nepal dominated by a patriarchal structure and rooted caste-based hierarchy system has a crucial role in this. Harmful traditional practices (HTPs) such as Chhaupadi, caste-based discrimination, witchcraft accusations, child marriage, dowry and persecution are root causes behind domestic violence and gender inequality.

The United Nations (UN) and the Nepal Administrative Staff College (NASC) define gender as the set of characteristics, social roles, responsibilities, power relations, identities and behavior patterns that distinguish women from men, which are constructed socially and culturally. Sex refers to the biological and physiological differences between males, females and intersex (reproductive differences based on genitalia, chromosomes and hormones) as determined by nature. It is universal and unchangeable. In short, sex refers to biological, born with, not changeable, and gender refers to socially constructed, not born with, changeable.

The International Organization for Migration states that, in Nepal only 22.9 percent of working-age women are in some form of employment compared to 48 percent of men. A UN Women report states that in 2021, only 13 percent of women were in managerial positions in Nepal whereas 22.9 percent of working-age women were engaged in minimum level of employment in comparison with men (employed at 48 percent). It states further that one-third of girls are still married before 18, and the highest rate of polygynous marriage is found in Bagmati Province (at 3.7 percent). 

Nepal Police records for the year 2020-21 show that 4222 men committed suicide compared to 2919 women, probably pointing toward the effect of toxic masculinity and social pressure.

It’s been 23 years since Nepal signed and ratified the United Nations Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination against Women (UN CEDAW), but gender equality is still a far cry in the country, notwithstanding some improvements at the institutional level. For example, the Constitution of Nepal 2015 has inclusion as a key feature. Formulation and implementation of other relevant acts and policies has increased women’s representation in the parliament to nearly 40 percent. 

There are two primary aspects to gender equality: a) human right or institutional perspective b) social or religious perspective. 

The social-religious perspective is more relative and contextual as it influences the entire society and institutions to build a system to be continued for development as a process. 

The Global Gender Gap Report 2024 from the World Economic Forum reveals that Iceland, Finland and Norway are the top three countries in terms of gender equality, each achieving a score exceeding 87 percent. This improvement is primarily attributed to a positive shift in the personal attitudes and behaviours of individuals, particularly among men toward women; however, the percentage of women in political representation remains around 44-46 percent. According to this report, Rwanda is in the 39th position with women making up 63.8 percent of parliamentary representatives (55 percent of cabinet members are women) and four out of seven judges in the Supreme Court are women. Nepal ranks 117th out of 146 countries in gender equality with a gender inequality index score of 0.661.

This shows that measures like formulation of policies and inclusion of women in top leadership positions roles may not be enough to ensure meaningful inclusion and equality in society. In the pursuit of inclusion, many countries exhibit tokenism driven by superficial advocacy and promotional efforts. In reality, true inclusion and equality stem from recognizing the inherent worth and resilience of every individual while embracing diversity with an open mind and a genuine commitment to education that translates knowledge into meaningful action.
In order to transform a patriarchal society into a gender-equal society, we must begin by giving boys and girls equal rights in ancestral property apart from empowering women with targeted programs and ensuring balance in power dynamics through affirmative actions for proportionate inclusion and meaningful participation of every woman in the system and structures.

The author is a Disability Inclusion Advisor at the United Mission to Nepal 

Trouble brews in coalition

Dissatisfaction is gradually brewing up inside the ruling Nepali Congress over the performance of the coalition government led by CPN-UML Chairperson KP Sharma Oli.

On one hand, CPN (Maoist Center) Chairperson Pushpa Kamal Dahal is provoking NC leaders to break the coalition with UML, while on the other, there is increasing dissatisfaction inside the NC rank and file. A couple of factors are widening the rift between the two parties.  

First, NC leaders have openly criticized the government’s move to introduce four ordinances by delaying to call the Parliament session. Senior leader of the party Shekhar Koirala, who is currently in the United Kingdom, said that instead of calling the winter session of Parliament, the government is focusing on bringing ordinances.

I have a doubt whether the powerful government of two parties is turning into an authoritarian one, said Koirala, who has already declared his plan to run for the party president.

In the past, Koirala was one of the strong advocates of the NC-UML government, stating that it would bring stability but after six months, Koirala and leaders close to him have begun openly criticizing the government. 

Even those leaders close to NC President Sher Bahadur Deuba are criticizing some of the decisions and speeches made by Prime Minister Oli. A few days back, Prime Minister Oli said that the constitution amendment will take place in 2030 because the amendment cannot take place without majority seats in the government.

Former foreign minister and Central Working Committee member NP Saud has publicly said Oli's statement on constitution amendment, made without consulting NC, is a violation of the agreement reached between two parties while forming the new government. Similarly, NC senior leader Arjun Nara Singh KC said that relevance of the seven-point agreement between two countries has ended after Oli’s objectionable statement on constitution amendment. The statement came at a time when NC and UML were preparing to form a taskforce to work out the modality of constitution amendment. Even a leader close to Prime Minister Oli said that there is a very slim chance of constitution amendment as some forces and parties are preparing to raise the radical agenda.

Already, there is dissatisfaction inside the NC over the signing of a framework agreement on Belt and Road Initiative (BRI). Leaders say though the party has stood against accepting loans under the BRI, the crux of the framework agreement is accepting loans. Foreign Minister Arzu Rana Deuba has said time and again that Nepal has denied loans under the BRI, but NC leaders are not convinced. Senior leaders of the party such as Prakash Sharan Mahat, NP Saud and scores of leaders close to Shekhar Koirala are objecting to the signing of the BRI. 

There is another point of friction, which NC leaders have not spoken publicly about but share in private conversations: the relationship with India and western countries. They say the government's mishandling of the issues related to foreign policy has sourced NC’s relationship with India and other western powers.

Especially, our relationship with India has soured after we joined UML to form a new government, plus, Foreign Minister Deuba has failed to improve ties with India, the NC leader said: after her visit to India in August, relationship between two countries and relationship between NC and India has further deteriorated, which is concerning. According to NC leaders, before his China visit, Prime Minister Oli used to heed the advice and respect the position taken by NC but after that he is gradually dominating the NC in the decision-making process. For instance, Oli heeded NC’s position of not removing Nepal Electricity Managing Director Kul Man Ghising but now he is bent on removing Ghising.

The growing dynamics inside the NC is equally responsible for the growing criticism of the government. Now, it seems that General Secretary Gagan Kumar Thapa is with party President Deuba and he is supporting and in many cases he is involved in some of the decisions of the government. The Shekhar Koirala faction believes that Thapa is seeking Deuba’s support for the party presidency. It seems Deuba, Shashank Koirala and Gagan Kumar Thapa are coming closer to weaken Shekhar Koirala. If that is the case, the Shekhar Koirala camp will work to topple this government, the NC leader said.

At the same time, CPN (Maoist Center) Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal is reaching out to NC leaders, who are publicly expressing dissatisfaction over the performance of the Oli government. Dahal is urging NC leaders to make extra efforts to bring down the government. Speaking with journalists on Tuesday in Sindhupalchowk, Dahal said due to the dissatisfaction inside the NC and unpopular decisions it has taken, this government will collapse.

I cannot predict the date but I think it does not have a long life, Dahal said, due to the internal dynamics of the NC government which cannot move ahead comfortably. Dahal added that though they did not want this government to continue, they were not making any effort to topple it.  NC President Deuba, despite the differences, is in favor of the continuation of this government with a view that Oli would peacefully hand over power to him.  Dahal has conveyed the message to Deuba that the Maoists would support the NC-led government till the next elections.

 

Sweet business of Chaku slowly turns bitter

Business of traditional sweet, Chaku, made from jaggery molasses is now experiencing the bitter taste of a shortage of workers which in years might widen the gap between demand and supply. Rohit Shrestha (19) is the fourth generation within his lineage to continue the business of Chaku (molasses) in the ancient town of Tokha in the outskirts of Kathmandu but things are going to change from his generation onwards. “I am the fourth generation who has been working on this family business of Chaku (molasses) making. I started assisting in the factory from an early age. I recently have completed my intermediate level (+2) and haven’t enrolled in the Bachelor’s level (Graduation). I want to go to foreign country after completion of my studies, where as of now am planning to continue promoting the molasses,” Shrestha told ANI while taking a break from his work at the factory.

The rising trend of flying abroad in search of better opportunities and education has been rising in the country. The majority of those flying abroad are youths and earning age groups queuing up at the airport ready to take off leaving the elderly behind.

The aroma of boiling stacks of sugar lumps filling the air around the Tokha is fading out in Tokha which is popular for first-class molasses which has high demand in the market. However, the making of molasses is seasonal and the industry only works full-fledged for just two months in a year with production made sparsely based on the demands.

Tokha, an ancient settlement inside Kathmandu Valley, is believed to have been in existence from the Malla Period, long before the unification of Nepal by Prithivi Narayan Shah and currently has around 15 molasses-making home-based industries.

The word ‘Tokha’ has an appendage from a Newa word ‘Tyokha’ meaning sweet and molasses were the main product of this place which has continued over the centuries. The Newa community of Kathmandu valley consumes a high volume of Chaku (molasses)—confectionery made from concentrated sugarcane juice, jaggery, ghee and nuts which holds significance on Maghe Sakranti—the first day of the 10th month as per the Lunar calendar.

This process involves melting jaggery, stirring it continuously and then cooling it in clay pots. It is then whipped, slapped, and stretched until it turns dark brown. The confectionery is then weighed, topped with nuts, and packaged. The whole process takes two to three hours.

Shrestha’s factory which used to employ about 20 people last year now is hosting 11 struggling to keep afloat the business. The current number also includes his family members who are now assisting in the factory work to continue the business. The situation in coming years can be dire for the small-scale industries that exist in this ancient town within the valley provided the steep rise in immigration culture that is brewing among the youths and active population group. With this, the sweet business of molasses is now experiencing the bitter taste of a shortage of workers which in years might widen the gap between demand and supply.

“Every year the demand for the Chaku (molasses) is continuing to rise but the shortage of the staff to work in the factory is resulting in the downfall of the supply. Many of the youths are now vying from foreign countries (the Gulf, Australia, Europe and the US) which has resulted in a shortage of staff to work in the factory which has cut the supply in terms of demands,” Buddha Shrestha, the Vice-Chair of the Tokha Traditional Chaku (Molasses) Conservation Society told ANI.